How do you write about beautiful cities like Venice and Oxford? Impossible cities! How do you do them justice? How do you get under their skin. How do you write about a place without sounding like a tourist guide or like everyone who has ever written about them before? I’d wrestled a bit with the question of beautiful cities in the Sam Falconer crime series that I wrote, which was set partly in Oxford, my home town.

For many years I could not write about the city at all. It felt like an implacable, indigestible lump of compacted experience and my attempts were either grossly sentimental or unpleasantly savage. The way that I dealt with Oxford in the end was to have my protagonist, Sam Falconer, be severely at odds with the environment she was brought up in. Conflict of course creates drama. There is no drama in a person having a happy childhood and loving their home town. None whatsoever. It’s the grit in the oyster after all, which creates the pearl. Here is Sam returning home after quite a long absence:


The Radcliffe Camera, Oxford

“The Radcliffe Camera sat squat and golden in the autumn sunshine. However malignant Sam felt towards Oxford, she could never view the Camera with anything other than wonder and affection … Memories crowded in on her. Every step she took brought forth another and another. Overwhelming and insistent, they poured into her until she felt she would burst. Like a crowd waving placards  they announced themselves one by one: Look at me! No, me! They pushed and elbowed and the sickness in the pit of Sam’s stomach grew.”


By JUMPING THE CRACKS the last in the series, Sam has an office in the Cowley Road and has ‘come home.’ It only took me four books to get her there!

One way of dealing with beautiful cities is to mine the area between their beauty and the reality of how someone may be feeling. Because most of us have probably had the experience of being in a beautiful place and feeling we ought to be happy when in fact we have, for whatever reason, felt as miserable as sin. “Look at me,” a beautiful city announces. “Aren’t I beautiful? What  – you’re not happy? Well, if you can’t be happy here there must be something the matter with you because there certainly isn’t anything the matter with me?” If you’re in the wrong mood it can be a bit like engaging with someone with a narcissistic personality disorder. No fun at all. The simple and obvious fact is that beautiful places do not necessarily make people happy. The gap between the beauty of a place and how we are actually feeling can make us feel worse.

So now to Venice. A startling place – a place beyond imagining even. In TITIAN’S BOATMAN there are two Venices, that of the 16th century and that of the 21st. How do you get under the skin of 16th century Venice? Well, my way in was through the people living there – the painters, the boatmen, the courtesans, the poets, the nuns and the patricians. In the 21st century part of my book, Terry, an actor, is not at all happy when his boyfriend Ludovico suggests they visit Venice. Here he is talking through his anxieties:

‘Don’t Look Now,’ Terry said.

‘At what?’

‘No, the film Don’t Look Now, when they go to Venice it doesn’t end well.’

Ludovico burst out laughing. ‘I promise you it won’t be anything like that.’

‘And then there’s Death in Venice of course,’ Terry said. ‘It might be tempting fate … and I’ll have to get myself some clothes.’

‘Your clothes are fine.’

‘But it’s Italy, the country of the bella figura. It’s Venice one of the most beautiful cities on earth. I’m too fat and not well dressed enough. You know how they stare at you.’


In the end, of course, despite his sartorial insecurities Terry does go to Venice  with Ludovico but that first visit does not go entirely to plan.


Don’t Look Now is a famous film directed by Nick Roeg starring Julie Christie and Donald Sutherland and is one of the most unsettling films you could ever chance to see. It is on my list of “very good but so disturbing that under no circumstances am I ever watching it again as long as I live” films. It was based on a Daphne du Maurier short story. Death in Venice is the Thomas Mann novella and also a famous film with Dirk Bogarde as von Aschenbach, a composer (in the book he’s a writer) who travels to Venice and has his world turned upside down when he sees a beautiful boy, Tadzio. The film is excellent albeit extremely melancholic. In his autobiography Bogarde said that he kept wanting to talk to Visconti about the role and each time he tried Visconti answered, ‘Have you read the book?’ When he replied that he had Visconti just replied, ‘Well, read it again.’

Now over to you. In terms of Oxford and Venice what books/films have you read or seen that you’d recommend. And while you’re about it tell me about your experiences in beautiful cities – the good, the bad and the ugly.


  1. Ooh, Don’t Look Now is brilliant – must watch it again! I agree beautiful places don’t necessarily make you happy, but I do find them comforting – well, old buildings and cities especially – in a “this too shall pass” kind of way. I have a tendency when the world gets too much to go and touch an old wall, preferably a castle wall, and remind myself of my own pettiness and irrelevance in the whole scheme of things. That always cheers me up! 😉

    (My only experience of Oxford is of attending a weekend finance meeting in a hotel there – just me and the 17 other managers in my company – all male! Discombobulating…)

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    • It’s given me a phobia about little children in red coats! I know what you mean about the “this too shall pass” aspect of ancient cities. Oxford used to do all male ‘very well’ hopefully it’s improved/improving on that front! Was the hotel The Randolph?


      • I can’t for the life of me remember – must be twenty years ago or so, though it was kinda luxurious in an old-fashioned way, and expensive – the company I worked for back then treated its workers like garbage and its managers like royalty! Some things don’t change… 😉

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  2. Interesting that thing about ‘beautiful’ cities not weaving their magic – I felt like that for decades about Paris but was seduced by it when I was free to explore it on my own. Rome is such a monumental city that you feel very small, which can be stifling. I love Venice, although the last time I was there, so too were about hundred cruise ships and their load – not an Italian voice to be heard and every alleyway crammed with loud tourists (I was a tutting tourist). My most recent discovery was Marseille, which I’d feared stepping into and which surprised me by being utterly wonderful – friendly, beautiful, and full of joie de vivre.

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  3. What a beautiful blog you have here – and an intriguing post with gorgeous photos. You are quite the writer! I enjoy watching the BBC mystery shows set in Oxford (Inspector Lewis – love). I visited Oxford many years ago and found the city a bit disappointing – but I’d like to go back and get a second shot at it. Venice is probably beautiful, but when I visited it I felt like I was in Disney World – too many tourists so couldn’t enjoy the beauty. My favorite city in Europe is Florence. And London. Oh, and Lucerne, Switzerland. 🙂

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    • Thank you for your kind comments! Ah, Florence. It was the first place I ever went abroad and so is sunk into my seven year old senses. I was transfixed by it. As someone born in Oxford I could never watch the Morses without thinking if his Jag goes down that road it definitely does NOT come out there. You can’t help yourself. It always distracted me from who had done it!

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  4. I’ve never been to Oxford, but I’ve been immersed in it for the past month or so reading your Sam Falconer novels – there is a great sense of the whole of the city – good and bad, traditional and not so traditional. These are the only series of novels I’ve read set there, so I expect you’ve coloured my impression of it forever! As for Venice, well apart from the wonderful sense of place you created in Titian’s Boatman, it has to be The Passion – but I did also enjoy Erica Jong’s Serenissima a long time ago. I’ve not usually been disappointed by the so-called beautiful cities I’ve visited, but I do remember being unimpressed by Barcelona – I was only there for a day, so perhaps didn’t see enough of it to do it justice!

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    • Thank you for reading the Sams, Andrea. I didn’t resist the temptation to cast a somewhat sardonic eye over the world of academia I’m afraid! I’d not heard of Erica Jong’s Serenissima but having checked it out just now it looks a riot. I’m glad beautiful cities have not disappointed. I think growing up in one has made me overly suspicious of them!

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